The Ultimate 10-Day Albania Itinerary (2024 Update)

We first traveled to Albania in late July – in the midst of a very warm summer and a global pandemic. The pros, things were cheaper than they normally were, places were fairly empty for Albania’s peak tourist season, and locals were always very excited to see us. The cons were that it was very hot (doable while on the coast, but not the best in the capital), and masks were required indoors. However, it allowed us to create the perfect 10-day Albania itinerary.

Honestly, Albania was not our first choice when we moved to Eastern Europe. We had our eyes set on the more well-known parts of the continent, but as Americans during Covid, Albania was the only place that would take us in. And we’re so happy they did – we honestly cannot recommend this country more. It’s a small but stunning and charming place. The food is delicious, the people are incredibly friendly, the country is safe, and the prices are very affordable.

Albania Itinerary Guide

If you only have one week, we would recommend choosing to go either north or south of Tirana. Trying to do the whole country in just one week will require way too much driving to actually enjoy the country. We had 10 days and since it was our first visit, we chose to go south to enjoy a bit more of the coast. However, we can’t wait to go back and explore what the northern mountains have to offer. Below is our suggested itinerary for a 10-day trip – only including things we did and meals we tried and loved across Albania.

Our flight from Belgrade to Tirana was only about an hour, and since the airport is small, we were through with customs shortly after arrival. We chose to rent a car and would highly recommend it. The roads are in pretty good condition and it’s a much easier way to get around.

We booked our car through Discover Cars and had a great experience. The site is very user-friendly and aggregates all types of vehicles and prices to make sure you find the best deal. 

Guide to 10 Days in Albania

Day 1: Arrive in Tirana

We chose to make the longest leg of this Albania itinerary first, all the way south to Saranda. There are two ways to make this drive: 1) following the coastline on highway A2; or 2) through the countryside on highway E853. The first option is of course much prettier and the views are stunning, but the second one is about an hour shorter.

Wanting to get there as soon as possible, we chose the quicker route. Despite having lower ratings, this was a beautiful drive as well, and one we would also recommend. The drive takes you through different microenvironments and the majestic Albanian mountains, you’ll be stopped by goat, cow and sheep crossings. The drive flew by for us. Our only regret was we wished we had time to stop and explore the small towns along the way.

The drive was about four hours long. The roads are in good condition, but you will be driving up and down some mountains so you’ll have to manage some narrow bits and hairpin turns.

Day 2-3: Saranda

The bigger, more commercial spot

Saranda is a fairly big town, with more posh buildings than small B&Bs. The town is known for its nightlife, with lots of clubs by the water. Unfortunately, clubs were closed when we were there due to Covid so we can’t really comment on that part. Like most coastal Albanian towns, it’s set up on the slope of a hill, and it feels like buildings shot up with no real design or plan, so it is lacking in culture and it has more of a commercial vibe than that of a small town.

Where to Stay in Saranda

We splurged a bit on this spot and went with an Airbnb rental that had an incredible terrace and a gorgeous view. It was about a 15-minute walk from the beach, but up a pretty steep hill. If you’re going with Aibnb, just keep in mind what floor they’re offering you. If you’re too low, your view will likely be blocked by newer constructions.

Where to Eat in Saranda

Taverna Fish Land (Saranda): We went here for lunch. It’s a bit away from the main boulevard, but worth the walk. It’s tucked away, but make sure to walk all the way down the hill and you’ll see it. They had great outdoor seating with a nice view of boats and the water. The fish is incredibly fresh (they had caught it that morning) and the service is outstanding.

Mare Nostrum Cuisine (Saranda): This is a fancier spot so we went here for dinner. The staff is really friendly and professional, and the menu is simple, but intriguing. The flavours and ingredients used are different from the traditional ones you’ll find in Albania. It had hints of Asian food mixed with their delicious fresh fish.

Guvat Mediterranean (Ksamil): The food is great but the view is what sells this place. It has a big outdoor terrace overlooking the ocean that’s impossible to beat. The natural juices were delicious, as was their seafood pasta.

What To Do in Saranda

Visit Butrint National Park: The park is about 30 minutes away from Saranda. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site made up of about 90 km2 of archaeology, monuments, and nature, giving it a very unique feel. The park also has the ruins of a large ancient city inhabited since prehistoric times, with a well-preserved theater. You could spend all day walking around, but we spent around 4 hours. We recommend going early as it does get very busy during peak season. You can also find all the details here for a proper guided tour.

Stop by the Ali Pasha Castle in Butrint: Once you’re in Butrint, take the boat ride to the Ali Pasha Castle, which dates back to the 17th Century and is only accessible by boat. You’ll notice some fishermen offering to take you out to see it near the parking lot (across from the entrance to the park) and it is well worth it! This spot is generally missed by tourists but it is especially stunning if you can go early, before checking out the park, when no one else is around.

Check out the Ksamil beaches: After exploring Butrint, we recommend driving into Ksamil for some food and time on the beach. The beaches are stunning with crystal clear water, but it is busy and feels very touristy with jet skies and water games all around. We spent the afternoon and had a great time, but honestly didn’t feel like we had to stay any longer.

Explore the Blue Eye: This is a water spring near the village of Muzine, about 30 minutes away from Saranda. Follow the signs, drive over the bridge, and through the rough path for about 5-10 minutes until you reach the parking lot. The spring is surrounded by a dense forest and a turquoise river. You’ll have to follow a very walkable path, and follow the signs to Syri i kaltër to reach the more than 50-meter deep pool that bubbles up.

Divers have tried to calculate the actual depth of the hole, but have thus far been unable to do so. Even though swimming is prohibited, people still jump into this ice-cold pool. If you keep following the path after you’ve reached the Eye, you’ll reach a nice restaurant where you’ll be served refreshing cold water directly from the river.

Day 4-6: Himare

The less-traveled path

After our afternoon in Ksamil, we headed north to Himare – about a 1.5-hour drive. This is a fun drive and it is stunning. The drive takes you up and around the mountains, half the time overlooking the countryside and the other half looking out into the Mediterranean. It is another windy drive, so would recommend doing it during the day, if possible.

Himare is a much smaller beach town, with a more authentic feel than Saranda or Ksamil, and a must in our Albania itinerary. The town is elevated on a hill, but instead of apartment buildings, you’ll see 2 or 3-story homes with terraces that are covered with grapes vines. There are two beaches in the town, one with umbrellas and chairs for rent and one without them.

The town is small and walkable, but what makes it even more special are the areas around it: the mountain trails, the secluded beaches, and the less-traveled paths. There are fewer restaurants than in Saranda, but the dishes are just as good – if not better. We fell in love with this little town and highly recommend it to anyone looking to explore Albania.

Where to Stay in Himare

Beleri House: Himare is known for having a great selection of B&Bs. After some research, we went with Beleri House and have nothing but great things to say about it. You can read more about the property and our experience here, but in short, the place is beautiful and homey, the host is full of wonderful recommendations, and the view overlooks the bay of this incredible town. Just beware that it is a bit tough to find, so make sure to contact them in advance for clear directions.

Parking is also not available by the property, but they’ll be able to guide you to the nearest parking lot as well.

Where to Eat in Himare

Esperia Restaurant: The restaurant is right on Himara’s harbour, next to the pier where fishing boats tie up. It has two outdoor spaces, right above the water and a stunning view. Highly recommend all of their greek and mediterranean appetizers.

Taverna Lefteri: Although it’s not directly on the water, don’t be discouraged! It has a cute outdoor area and the food is incredible. Real taverna with fresh seafood. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable about the place and the food. Make sure to try the mussels and some of their Albanian liquor at the end of the meal.

Kico Meniko: This is a magical, one of a kind restaurant. It’s not directly in the downtown Himara area, but a 40 minute walk away towards Livadi Beach. You can drive there too, but we highly recommend the hike, which you can read more about here. The food is delicious, and it has to be the best view of any restaurant in Himara. They didn’t really speak English and don’t have a formal menu, but it was by far one of our favorite places. Make sure to try the squid!

Solymar: This restaurant is not in Himara, but in Borsh Beach – about a 30 minute away. We read about this spot so made the drive to try it out, as we’re glad we did! The restaurant has a fun atmosphere and it’s right on the beach. The risotto and the seafood salad were amazing, and the mojitos were nice and strong too. And as in most spots in Albania, our waiter was friendly, attentive and had great recommendations.

What To Do in Himare

Hike to Livadi Beach: This is a fairly easy hike that takes you past our favorite Kiko Meniko restaurant. You’ll want to head to the harbour (by Esperia Restaurant) and then go off the beaten path. You’ll notice some stairs that take you up to the hill and then follow the path to the road. Once you reach a soccer field, you’ll want to take a left. This path takes you along the coast and is more of a nature trail.

If you want to follow the road, take a right. At one point the trail splits off into a few dead ends, but eventually you’ll pass Kiko Meniko and about 20 minutes from there, you’ll run into Livadi Beach. It’s a wonderful hike and at the end you reach a beautiful large beach with plenty of restaurants and bars.

Kayak to Filikuri Beach: Rent a kayak at the main Himare beach and head to the left (if you’re looking towards the water). It’ll take you about 20-30 minutes, but you’ll see this small, hidden bay surrounded by high cliffs that you can only reach by water.

The Albanian coast is rocky so make sure to bring water shoes to make the walk in and out of the water more comfortable. If you want to spend most of the day here, make sure to bring enough food and water because there are no shops on the beach or shade.

Visit Himara Castle: We stopped by the castle and the surrounding ruins on our drive out of Himare since it’s about a 10-minute drive away from the beach. The castle is largely in ruins but it is a picturesque spot with a great view of the coastline and the mountains. It is a bit of a hike up so make sure to wear comfortable shoes, but it is a stop we recommend.

Hike to Gjipe Beach: This beach is between Drymades and Himare, about a 40-minute drive from Himare, and one of our favorites in this Albania itinerary. The only way to get to the beach is either by boat or by foot. We chose the latter and it is a 30-40 minute hike, with some challenging sections so make sure to wear tennis shoes.

The beach is surrounded by cliffs and the Gjipe Canyon which can reach up to 70 meters in some sections. There are a few small restaurants on the beach and some chair/umbrella rentals, but prices are higher than elsewhere in Albania given the challenges to reach the beach. It is a beautiful spot, generally less crowded, and well-known for great camping.

Visit Porto Palermo Castle: It is also known as the Ali Pasha Castle (built by the area’s Ottoman governor who also built the castle on the water in Butrint) and is located in Porto Palermo, about 20 minutes away from Himare. The fortress was used as a Soviet submarine base during Albania’s communist years. It is a small fortress, but there is a great view from the top. There are road signs to point you in the right direction, but the short dirt road to the parking lot can sneak up on you (we missed the first time).

Day 7-8: Berat

The spot where magic meets charm

After a few days on the coast, we headed towards the town of Berat in the mountains. It was a 3-hour beautiful drive through the coast. We made a quick stop in Vlore for some food and found a place right along the water. Fortunately, the cook’s grandfather had brought over some homemade raki, so after a nice meal, they sent us on our way with a small bottle of it. Therefore we have no choice but to highly recommend Piceri Amantia if you’re in Vlore.

Berat is stunning and one of the most memorable points of our Albania itinerary. It’s known as the city of a thousand windows and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. It is a magical spot, on the banks of the river Osum and at the foot of Mount Tomor.

The city is known for its more than 2,500-year-old fortress, where citizens still live, and hundreds of houses on the cliff that look like they stand on top of each other. It was incredibly hot during our visit, but the city’s charm and the incredibly kind people made it one of our favorite spots.

You can even take a day trip to Berat, directly from Tirana. Check out all the details here.

Where to Stay In Berat

In Berat, there are three key areas where you could stay:

Old Town (Mangalem Quarter): This is the heart of the city and the area with the “thousand windows”. From here, you can walk everywhere in the city in about 20-30 minutes, just know you won’t be able to drive up and will need to walk through cobblestone roads. We chose to stay in an Airbnb in this part of the city and loved the spectacular view and central location.

Inside the fortress: If you want an incredibly unique stay, you can stay inside the fortress near the Berat Castle. The area has churches and mosques but is still residential. It is a historic center in and of itself, but it is a bit further away and a hike from the center of the city.

Gorica: This is a quieter district, right across the river from Old Town. It was originally the Christian part of the city and is now full of restaurants and bars. The view is stunning because it looks into the Old City and the thousand windows on the hill.

Where to Eat in Berat

Antigoni Restaurant: Hands down the best view of Berat, overlooking the Old City. The food was traditional Albanian and the service was excellent. Make sure to call ahead and make a reservation if you visit during peak season since their balcony can get pretty busy.

Heaven’s Kitchen: Great place for a fast, simple meal. We got a delicious gyro and enjoyed it in the park across the street.

Cobo Winery: This is a beautiful, family owned winery. We did a tour of the storage area and they walked us through their family history and how they sharpened their skills working in wineries in Italy and eventually made their way back to Albania after the fall of communism. We splurged and did the more expensive tasting, but it was so worth it! We got to try 5 wines, 3 rakis and 1 cognac, and the pours were not small. We were also served some delicious appetizers to pair with our wine. Make sure to make a reservation in advance if you choose to visit.

Kokomani Winery: We checked out Komani Winery on our drive to Tirana since it was on the way. About 10 minutes of the drive is through dirt roads, and about 5 minutes into it we did start having our doubts but it is well worth the off roading. We didn’t do a formal tour, but got to try 4 different wines and had one of our best lunches of the trip. The ingredients were all fresh, the appetizers were delicious (and so many!) and the chicken was the best chicken we’ve ever had.

What to Do in Berat

Walk around the city: The city is unique and has a special kind of charm. We recommend walking around the city, without a map or a set agenda. Make stops to check out the old houses and narrow streets. Talk to locals (they’ll be eager to talk to you!) and answer their many questions (american politics in our case). We were stopped by a 90-year-old man who didn’t speak any English but was curious about why we chose Albania, and were even invited to have some homemade wine by the owner of a hostel who just loved the US. The people of this city are genuine, curious and unforgettable.

Hike up to Berat Castle: The castle is at the top of a hill. You can drive or walk up. We recommend taking the walk, even though it is a bit steep at times. The castle is the biggest castle in Albania and remains mostly undamaged. Families still live inside the fortress, and some spots have been turned into restaurants and hotels. There’s multiple vantage points where you can get birdseye views of the city and the countryside. The 14th-century Church of Saint Trinity and the remnants of the old city are worth exploring as well.

Explore the religious sites: Albania’s relationship with the church is unique. During its decades under communism, religion was banned and churches and mosques were turned into swimming pools or outdoor markets. Today, Albania is one of the most open countries when it comes to religion, and in Berat, you’ll notice Christian churches standing peacefully next to centuries-old mosques. During our walk, we were even invited to hike up the Minaret of the Sultan’s Mosque.

Grab coffee at Bulevardi Republika: This is the main boulevard in the city and it’s surrounded by cute spots to grab coffee or a gyro. You’ll notice locals walking up and down the street, and playing chess in the park. And it’s a perfect spot to get a photo of the thousand windows and the incredibly unique homes.

Day 9-10: Tirana

The city of historic contradictions

No Albania itinerary would be complete without Tirana, the charming capital, and we saved it for the last two days of the trip. Tirana was isolated for decades until 1991, but this city is actually filled with color and music, tons of history and creative museums. Some may be eager to skip the capital in hopes of spending more time in the mountains or the coast, but we strongly encourage spending at least two days in this lively city.

Where to Stay in Tirana

Today, Tirana is an example of that transformation, with buildings that have been painted from grey to bright colors and welcoming citizens, eager to help and show off their nation. In hopes to inspire others to visit, we put together a full list of where to stay in Tirana, including the best neighborhoods and a list of hotels, aiming to suit every type of travel budget. 

Where to Eat in Tirana

Mullixhiu: Albanian fine dining in Tirana, who would have thought? The restaurant is obviously high-class based on its high-end farmhouse decor. Along with the exposed bread milling station, the decorations give this restaurant a lot of character. The service and the food were high quality, but it was oppressively hot, and for that reason, we couldn’t enjoy it as much as we would have liked (no indoor dining due to Covid).

A la Sante: If you’re in Tirana, you have to eat here! It was just amazing. It’s in the Blloku neighborhood, but tucked away in an alley. The location might have you second-guessing, but the pasta is so good. We had the truffles pasta and the spinach ravioli, and they were both delicious and incredibly affordable. The service was great once again.

Uka Farm: Uka Farm was founded by a former Minister of Agriculture who wanted to promote organic farming in the country and built this incredible spot in a small plot of land. We stopped by for a quick bite and a drink before our flight out, and we’re glad we did. The wine and appetizers were delicious. The service was excellent. We mentioned we were in a bit of a rush, and everything came out quickly.

Komiteti: You won’t really find food here, but they have great coffee and dozens of types of Raki. It’s right behind the Pyramid of Tirana and looks like a museum of Communist paraphernalia. You won’t find a spot like this anywhere else.

What to Do in Tirana

Walk around Skanderbeg Square: This is where a lot of Tirana’s key attractions are located, including the Clock Tower, Ethem Bey Mosque and the National History Museum. The Skanderbeg Monument is in the center of the square, commemorating an Albanian national hero for resisting the Ottomans. The monument replaced a statue of Joseph Stalin after the fall of communism.

Several government buildings are located around the square as well. They used to be grey and dark while the country was in isolation, but restoration efforts over the past couple decades have spruced up the buildings with a colorful and unique facade.

Visit the Bunk’Art Museums: Tirana has several incredible museums, but two really stood out to us – in part because they’re located inside old bunkers. The Bunk’Art 2 museum is close to Skanderbeg Square and impossible to miss. The museum showcases the story of the Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991 and highlights the secret of the political police and their harsh persecutions.

Bunk’Art 1 is a bit further from the center of town. This one is much larger and displays a significant portion of Albania’s history from the Italian and German invasions during World War II to the communist days. The history is fascinating, but the feeling of being in a bunker is tough to describe.

You’ll see the decontamination rooms, living quarters, and lack of windows to avoid all sunlight. And you’ll learn that in less than 10 years, the government managed to build over 170,000 bunkers – one for every 11 residents. None of them were ever used.

If you want more information, you can take a communist tour through Tirana, including these museums. Find out all the details here.

Check out the Pyramid of Tirana: This structure was created to honor the former communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, and was considered one of the most expensive structures ever built in Albania. With the collapse of communism, the Pyramid stopped working as a museum. It was a conference center for a while, as well as a broadcasting network and a NATO headquarter.

Though the structure is now abandoned, it is certainly worth making it a part of your Albania itinerary. You’ll see pieces broken and graffitis painted throughout, and people will meet there to drink and hang out.

There were discussions about whether or not to demolish it, but after protests to keep it, the decision was made to turn it into an education center that can offer teenagers training in technology and design. There will also be an open plaza with public spaces, including a library.

Explore the Blloku neighborhood: This is one of Tirana’s liveliest districts, but just a few years ago, only elite communist members were able to enter. Hoxha’s house is still there, closed to the public but visible from the outside. There are many colorful and exciting bars throughout the neighborhood with delicious cocktails. We recommend picking one, having a drink, and working your way around the district. Make sure to check out Radio Bar and Nouvelle Vague!

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